EMPIRE TRAVELLER

TO STAY

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ÇIRAGAN PALACE KEMPINSKI: The Çiragan Palace was originally one of Istanbul's most beautiful and renowned historical palaces, now restored as a Kempinski establishment. Built as an extension to the famous Çiragan Palace along the Bosphorus, the Kempinski Hotel offers the unique experience of staying at a sultan's home dating back to the 19th century. With a panoramic view of the river and the bridge, the hotel is an excellent choice in terms of luxury and location. The Kempinski also houses one of Istanbul's finest Ottoman restaurants and offers a refined experience of the Turkish Hamam and spa. Even if this is not your choice of hotel, make sure you pay a visit throughout your stay.

 

FOOD & DINING

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TUGRA: Selection Tray - Cheese & Spinach Borek - Vine Leaves - Yoghurt Cucumber Salad - Chicken Topkapi - "Iskilip Dolma" - Pistachio Kebap - Sea Bass - Baklava - Kunefe - Sweet Pumpkin Puree

Tugra is a dining priority in Istanbul, not only for offering some of the most delicious Turkish cuisine in the city but also for a culturally unique experience of the Ottoman table; not to mention the gorgeous and romantic view of the palace terrace and Bosphorus river. Based on ancient recipes recovered from historical palaces, Tugra's menu serves a variety of authentic dishes that originate all the way back to the 1300s. To add to the palace experience, all the dishes are served on fancy silver platters and grand plate covers, in the style of royal Ottoman-etiquette. Start off with a small tray of appetizers that include cheese pastes and salads. The Cheese-Spinach Borek and Vine Leaves are excellent starters, paired with the Cucumber Salad served in light but flavorsome yoghurt and pomegranate extract. For the main course, the Chicken Topkapi (herbed chicken breast stuffed with buttery rice and pistachio, served on a bed of creamy spinach and tomato sauce) is a delicious dish exuding with exotic flavors. The Iskilip Dolma (braised beef cooked with vegetables, traditional Akçeltik rice, and yoghurt) is melt-in-the-mouth tender; this is another excellent choice for a warm, fulfilling meal. The Pistachio Kebap is also a tender and flavorsome dish if you prefer a safer option. As for dessert, the Pumpkin Purée is not bad,  but the Baklava and Kunefe dripping with sweet honey water and cream is unmissable. Tugra will fulfil your Turkish-royalty dreams.

 

SUNSET GRILL & BAR: Chili Fried Shrimp - Shrimp Tempura - Salmon Tartare - Tempura Zucchini Flowers - Yellowtail Sashimi - Lobster Linguini - California Maki-B Roll - Ebi Ten Maki Roll - Norwegian Salmon & Mushroom Risotto - Salmon & Coconut Risotto - Crispy Duck - Jumbo Shrimp - Chocolate Mousse - Chocolate Soufflè - Creme Brûlée

The Sunset Grill & Bar is one of Istanbul's upscale restaurants, located on a hilltop below Ulus Park with a spectacular view of the Bosphorus river and Asian shoreline. A fusion of Mediterranean, Turkish, and Japanese cuisine, the menu is a perfect example of Turkey's cultural and geographic diversity. Besides the excellent food, the restaurant itself offers a more modern and refined dining experience with two eccentric bars for drinks (make sure you request a table in the smoking area, it's much more lively and enjoyable). Although the staff can be slow, their politeness makes up for it. For starters, the Chili Fried Shrimp and Shrimp Tempura dishes were both incredible, served with different creamy sauces that complemented every other appetiser. The Yellowtail Sashimi and Salmon Tartare are incredibly fresh. The Tempura Zucchini Flowers is another memorable appetiser, stuffed with soft goat cheese, shrimp, and a saffron labneh garnish. For the second course, sushi rolls and the Lobster Linguini were an excellent lead-in to the mains. Although both of the Salmon dishes are excellent, the salmon served with the mushroom risotto and red wine sauce was better seasoned than the one served with the coconut risotto (but I do reccommend requesting a side of the coconut risotto, because it is superb). The Crispy Duck and grilled Jumbo Shrimp served with sweet mango are also delicious choices. For dessert, the Créme Brûlée and crispy Chocolate Mousse are the best. Sunset is definitely another Istanbul favorite and a must-try while you're in the city. 

 

PLACES TO VISIT & THINGS TO DO

 

DOLMABAHÇE SARAYI: Located along the European coastline (a 10 minute walk from the Kempinski Hotel), the Dolmabahçe Palace is probably my favorite historical attraction in Istanbul. More recent than the other sites, the palace was built during the 1800s in the Baroque and Rococo styles. The garden and terrace entrance is breathtaking in the warm afternoon light; you will feel like royalty as you walk past the fountain, onto the gravel path lined with trees, and up the stairs to the palace. The architecture inside and outside is beautifully classic, as it houses a large collection of treasures from around the world. The palace holds a collection of the largest chandeliers in the world made of thousands of Baccarat crystals, two of the world's largest carpets, a 150-year old bearskin rug from the Russian tsar, and 14-tons of gold used to decorate the walls and ceiling (this is only to list a few). The most breathtaking parts of the palace, though, are the royal Crystal Staircase shaped like a double horse-shoe and the grand Ceremonial Hall - their beauty is priceless. Important note on visiting the palace: all visits are grouped and guided, with tours starting every 15 minutes or so (lasting approximately 30-45 minutes). I usually prefer touring alone, but the guide was actually really interesting and well-paced. Not to be missed!

 

TOPKAPI SARAYI: The second priority on my tour-list is one of the major Ottoman palaces, dating back to the 1400s. The palace consists of four main courtyards (each of which holds different sites, such as ceremonial rooms, baths, libraries, imperial councils, etc), smaller rooms, as well as exhibitions of ancient treasures, furniture, jewelry, and so on. Make sure you take a full tour of the palace without missing a courtyard; the best way to do that is to find yourself back at your starting point, as one courtyard leads into the other. In addition to the four courtyards, the Harem is also worth a visit and shouldn't take too long. Keep in mind that, overall, Topkapi needs at least two hours to be entirely visited. Also not to be missed.

 

HAGIA SOPHIA & SULTANAHMET/BLUE MOSQUE: Of course, these two historical sites need no introduction as they are some of the most famous mosques in Istanbul (if not the world). The Hagia Sophia and Sultanahmet Mosque (also known as the Blue Mosque) are located in the old-side of the city, and thankfully right across from one another. Take two hours in the morning to visit the two sites, but try to avoid prayer calls when visiting the Sultanahmet as they close sections of the mosque during these times. As for the Hagia Sophia, make sure you also visit the balconies upstairs. 

 

GRAND BAZAAR & SPICE MARKET: Although this was not a particular favorite of mine (loud, crowded, and full of tourist-hagglers), the Grand Bazaar and Spice Market are nonetheless an Istanbul must-see; and to be fair, they have some gorgeous Turkish designs and ornaments. Just be careful with your money, your bags, and where you're going because it's so easy to get lost inside. You'll also find some of the best shops for authentic Turkish desserts and pastries (my favorite is Baklavaci Muhammed Said).

 

ISTINYEPARK (WATSONS) MALL: Besides the tourist attractions, Istanbul also has a beautiful shopping location that is a little further from the center (about 20-25 minutes by car). The Watsons area is a big courtyard of upscale designer boutiques, such as Christian Louboutin, Louis Vuitton, Céline, and Prada, as well as a Zuma restaurant. Walk on through to the Istinyepark Mall to find a wide variety of shops, specialty stores, and cafés. An excellent location to grab a bite and get your shopping done in one go.

 

ISTANBUL MODERN ART MUSEUM: The modern exhibitions here were a nice break from all the historical attractions in Istanbul. If you're into quirky, contemporary art and fun installations, make sure to check this out.

 

TURKISH HAMAM: One of the most exciting experiences offered in Istanbul is the traditional Turkish bath that originated in the royal palaces. There are plenty of places that provide this service all over the city, but choose your hamam carefully and wisely! And make sure you research the one you are going to for rules and regulations (some of the hamams require full nudity, for example). Your best bet would be a hamam offered by the hotel you are staying in, but don't be shy about exploring more daring/authentic locations.

 

BOSPHORUS BOAT TOUR/ASIAN SECTOR: If the weather is nice enough, you could take a boat toar around the river or to even cross over to Asia-Istanbul. If you're short on time, however, I would not particularly nominate this activity unless you have a clear plan of what you want to do there. Unfortunately, we got really lost and found that the people are not as helpful or communicative. So to save yourself some time and trouble, map out your areas of interest and know the departure times of the boats to take you back.

 

 

TRAVELING TIPS

 

1. Make sure you take a look at the opening hours of the historical sites you want to visit, as some of them are closed on certain mid-week days and have different operating times.

 

2. If you plan on visiting mosques, make sure you are dressed appropriately to enter the site (for females, remember to have a veil for hair coverage).

 

3. Try to avoid using taxis for transport; they are known to overcharge customers and tend to take longer, busy routes in order to do so.

 

4. Research any hamams you plan on visiting for any particular rules and regulations they might have, and choose your hamam wisely!

 

5. Unless you have spare time, don't waste it crossing over to the Asian sector of Istanbul without a clear plan of what you want to see, where you want to go, and the departure times/ports of the ferry boats.

 

6. Be careful with your money and bags in heavily touristic and crowded areas, like the Grand Bazaar and Spice Market.

 

7. The best hotels to stay at are located along the Bosphorus river.

 

8. Try the Baklava from Baklavaci Muhammed Said, amazing!