MARRAKECH, MOROCCO
Marrakech is both alluring and adventurous, with an exciting combination of culture, tradition, and exotic leisure. The colourful city walls and bustling local markets will dazzle from dawn to dusk, while hidden spa sanctuaries offer quiet retreat. Staying at a traditional Riad is an experience unlike any other, and Moroccan dining is a vibrant adventure of its own. Be it in bustling souks or soothing hammams, the city has plenty to offer; and if you want the best of both worlds, Marrakech has it.
TO STAY
Staying at a riad (a traditional Moroccan courtyard-house) is a unique experience; it's a significant part of Moroccan culture and certainly one worth trying in Marrakech. Riads are very similar to serviced villas and some of the best ones offer only three to four bedrooms, making it a very exclusive and personalised experience. There are several luxury hotels in the city, but nothing quite compares to the experience of a Moroccan riad.
For a traditional riad experience, Dar Seven is one of the better options in Marrakech. Hidden at the back of a winding passageway, Dar Seven is a paradisal sanctuary tucked away from the bustling Old Medina. It's a small and intimate riad with only two bedrooms and two suites (each with private loggias), a common courtyard and terrace all in modern-Moroccan style. It's well-kept and serviced, with a small team available 24-hours a day. A full Moroccan breakfast spread is brought up to the rooms every morning and this is one of the most enjoyable parts of the stay (highly recommend booking the Loggia Suite to enjoy breakfast/tea time out on the beautiful loggia overlooking the courtyard). There are no additional facilities at the riad like a spa or pool, but it is a wonderful and unique experience.
For something between a traditional riad and a boutique hotel, Izza is exactly that. This exclusive riad-hotel has fourteen bedrooms, three courtyards, one rooftop restaurant, as well as a pool and wellness space. With a focus on art & design, Izza's Moroccan-inspired interiors have a distinctive flare and a hip atmosphere (very similar vibe to Soho House); a perfect choice for travellers with more contemporary taste. Located in the Old Medina.
For a luxurious stay, La Mamounia is one of the most famous hotels in the country. With a century-old history, opulent palatial interiors and sprawling gardens, La Mamounia offers a majestic experience in the heart of the medina. Spread over 20 acres of land, La Mamounia is a grand and spacious haven of tranquility with plenty to offer. There are several restaurants, bars and tea rooms, entertainment spaces like a cinema and game room, an expansive spa for all kinds of treatments and hammams, and not to mention acres of gardens to stroll through. Beyond all there is to enjoy on-ground, La Mamounia is also ideally located near the Old Medina to set its guests out to explore the city.
For a more exclusive and secluded experience, The Royal Mansour offers five-star luxury in a more intimate setting. The hotel offers a total of 53 riads, which means guests can enjoy their very own private villa during their stay; a perfect choice for those wanting a traditional riad experience with the service of a five-star hotel. The Royal Mansour is almost half the size of La Mamounia, but it does have several dining options, a beautiful spa facility, and an outdoor pool and gardens to enjoy. Also ideally located within the Old Medina.
FOOD & DINING
AL FASSIA - Old Medina & New Medina
Al Fassia is one of Marrakech's most renowned establishments for Moroccan cuisine and an excellent choice to begin with. Home-style cooking by the women of Fes that really celebrates traditional dishes and their generational recipes. The menu offers plenty to try, with a variety of soups, salads, tajines and couscous to please all tastes. There are two locations in the city, each serve the same menu but in different atmospheres. For a more traditional riad setting with a charming garden space, visit the Aguedal restaurant (Old Medina); whereas the one in Gueliz (New Medina) offers a more modern, refined setting. Reserve a table in advance.
DAR YACOUT - Old Medina
For traditional Moroccan cuisine in an alluring setting, dining at Dar Yacout feels like stepping into A Thousand and One Nights. Set in a luxurious riad with warm lantern lighting, lavish interiors, and live music in the background, Dar Yacout creates an alluring and enchanting atmosphere for dinner. There are two fixed menus to choose from, with a selection of a la carte dishes to add on. Each menu serves an array of mezze to start, followed by tajines to share (meat or vegetarian), and dessert to finish (the Almond Pastilla is especially good). As one of the oldest establishments in Marrakech that celebrates timeless tradition, Dar Yacout is a pleasant experience not only of local cuisine but also the unique Moroccan allure.
LE MAROCAIN - Old Medina
Located at the luxurious La Mamounia hotel, Le Marocain offers refined Moroccan cuisine in an elegant palatial setting. The menu serves a variety of traditional dishes like couscous and tajines, as well as signature chef creations with a more contemporary taste. An excellent choice to enjoy local flavours with a five-star touch and the splendours of La Mamounia. If the weather is pleasant enough, ask for a garden table. Open only for dinner, elegant attire required.
This boutique riad hotel offers two dining options worth exploring. La Table du Souk is a casual lunch restaurant set on a lush green-clad terrace overlooking the medina, with a fusion menu of typical Moroccan cuisine and street-style food. Perfect for a fun and laidback afternoon. For dinner, La Table de La Sultana is a more refined experience set around the hotel's gorgeous courtyard. The menu offers both French and Moroccan cuisine served in a sophisticated, fine-dining style. A pleasant choice for an elegant evening.
For a lively setting and sweeping views of the Old Medina, Nomad is a hip rooftop restaurant in the heart of the local souk. It's busy and bustling day to night, making it a pleasant spot for a midday break or an evening out amidst the hustle & bustle of the market. The menu offers a modern take on local cuisine, but the focus here is really less on food and more on setting.
GRAND CAFÉ DE LA POSTE - New Medina
Tucked away on a quiet corner in Gueliz, this old bistro-salon will lure you in with its nostalgic Jazz music and colonial French décor. Totally unassuming on the outside with a world to uncover through its doors. Step back in time at Grand Café de La Poste with its timeless elegance reminiscent of twentieth-century salons; checkered floors, red velvet chairs and lamp lights, soft music in the background... it's utterly romantic. A delightful place to enjoy a late evening in the New Medina.
PLACES TO VISIT & THINGS TO DO
Originally founded by Jacques Majorelle and later revived by Yves Saint Laurent, this enchanting paradise lies in the heart of the New Medina as an homage to art & nature. The Majorelle Garden creates harmony between an artist's cultivated work and nature's wild creations in a colourful botanical masterpiece; with a distinctive blend of Moorish tradition and Art Deco elegance. The Blue Square Fountain is really the main attraction of the visit - the deep-blue Berber house contrasted by bright tiles and green cacti; it's bold and picturesque. You'll also find YSL's memorial nearby and a café. Visit the gardens as early in the morning or later in the evening to avoid the crowds; but if there's a queue outside when you go, it moves fairly quickly.
JEMAA EL-FENAA & AL KOUTOUBIA MOSQUE
This is the main market square in the Old Medina and an unmissable spectacle. The morning is a good time to go market-hunting for unique handicrafts and souvenirs; and there are plenty of stalls for local oils, herbs and spices to take home. At night is when the place really comes to life, with startling street performances, live music, crowded food stalls and crowds roaming around. It can be a little overwhelming but an interesting experience nonetheless. Dress modestly, be careful with your money and belongings, and just prepare for a lot of bargaining and haggling. Just across the market, Al Koutoubia is the city's largest mosque.
A serene and spacious 19th century palace full of ornate tile-work, colourful doors and beautiful courtyards. This is one of the more peaceful and visually pleasing sites in the Old Medina, not far from Jemaa El-Fenaa and Al Koutoubia. There's plenty to see inside, so make sure to explore all the different sections.
This architectural gem is one of Marrakech's most significant landmarks. Apart from its cultural and historical importance as the largest Islamic college in Morocco, the gorgeous courtyard and elaborate handiwork alone is worth seeing; the intricately carved wood, sculpted plaster and tile patterning is stunning. Adjacent to the school is the Ben Youssef Mosque, which is just as impressive and perhaps one of the city's most beautiful mosques.
A little further south from the central Medina, the 16th-century Saadian Tombs are another historical highlight for Moorish architecture, intricate woodwork and tiles.
In case you're wondering, and in case you've seen appealing photos online of the Menara Gardens (located in Gueliz), let me warn you that it is a disappointing waste of time. Speaking from first-hand experience, it's nothing as it appears in photos. The gardens are shamefully uncultivated and barren, with no botanical designs to marvel at; and the long artificial lake in the middle is brown and murky. I couldn't spend more than 10 minutes looking around the place.
TRADITIONAL HAMMAM
Morocco is home to some of the best wellness rituals and a traditional hammam is one of them. A full-body cleansing and purifying experience including steam, exfoliation and massage; and the use of Moroccan soap is what really makes it special. Book at a luxury spa for the best experience - La Mamounia and The Royal Mansour offer exceptional experiences.
OURIKA VALLEY
Approximately 30 km outside Marrakech, Ourika Valley is a natural haven in the High Atlas mountains. If your stay permits a day trip from the city, this is absolutely worth it. The river rises and flows throughout the valley and there are over seven waterfalls to explore. It's an easy hike up to the mountains for the most stunning landscape views. Local guides will help map out the best route to take, depending on how long you want to stay. Go as early as possible to enjoy a full day at the valley without rushing through the hike. On the drive up there, there's also a renowned women's cooperative for naturally-sourced oils, herbs, and organic products (especially quality argan oil). A very pleasant change of scenery from the hustle & bustle of the city.
TRAVELING TIPS
1. Prioritise staying in a traditional riad. This is a remarkable experience unique to Morocco that will really immerse you in the culture and heritage of the country.
2. Marrakech is divided into the Old Medina and New Medina (Gueliz). The Old Medina is cultural and historical, and probably where you'll be spending most of your time; all the notable hotels and riads are also located there. The New Medina is just the standard, urbanised side of the city with much less to do or see. The two sides, however, are literally separated by a gate and you can easily go back and forth by foot or car.
3. Map your way around Marrakech to save time and trouble when sightseeing. Several historical landmarks are within walking distance to each other, whereas others will require a 10-20 minute drive. Most landmarks require tickets and close by 5 pm, so plan your visits accordingly.
4. Learn to bargain and prepare to be haggled. This is natural and essential in Morocco if you plan on visiting any local markets. Compare prices between different stalls and have a general understanding of how things are priced. And always make sure the taxi meter is on.
5. Book treatments at a luxury spa. Morocco is famous for its wellness treatments and hammams, which are certainly an integral part of the visit, but these are best enjoyed at a well-established facility. Try La Mamounia and The Royal Mansour for a pampered experience.
6. Dress modestly and appropriately, and be mindful of Moroccan culture. This is one of the surest ways to roam comfortably among locals and avoid unwanted attention on the streets.
7. Manage your expectations of Marrakech. Understand that, in reality, it's not a whimsical Oriental escape; it's a historical city that can be loud, overwhelming and stimulating. You can enjoy a secluded, confined experience at a luxury hotel if you choose, but be more mentally prepared if you want to explore the city outside.