MILAN, ITALY
Milan is like the second capital of Italy. A metropolis of design, fashion and business with a big-city feel, unlike most Italian cities that have a quieter, town-like atmosphere. Milan enjoys two sides of the coin with as much historic culture as modern, but the contemporary scene is particularly special. There's a wide range of art museums, modern galleries, fashion & design showrooms to entertain any taste. If you're looking for the hustle & bustle of a big city with Italian charm, Milan is the place.
TO STAY
Essentially a private members club by the Cipriani group, the boutique hotel is similarly very select and luxurious - accessible only to club members and overnight guests. Interiors are a lavish blend of timeless Italian glamour and Cipriani's signature nautical elegance. With only 15 rooms, one bar-lounge and one restaurant, a strict no-photos policy and a general dress code, Casa Cipriani offers a sense of privacy and exclusivity in the heart of the city. Set across the Montanelli Gardens in Porta Venezia, just outside Quadrilatero della Moda (Milan's main fashion district); its location is just a short walk to major streets like Via Montenapoleone and Corso Venezia, as well as the Duomo and Galleria. Because it is more of a members club than a hotel, it's perfect for a one-two night stay or if you don't plan on spending much time at the hotel.
Stylish and fashionable like its surrounding district, Portrait Milano is one of the city's most design-forward hotels. Housed in a historic seminary building in the heart of the Quadrilatero della Moda, Portrait Milano is both secluded and well-connected. Just steps from the famous Corso Venezia, Via Montenapoleone, and a short walk to the Duomo. Its central Piazza is also a destination of its own for guests and visitors alike, with a beautiful courtyard terrace, fashion boutiques, and high-end restaurants. A great place to stay for something luxurious and private in a central location.
For a comfortable and convenient stay, this contemporary boutique hotel sits right in the middle of everything. With the Duomo and Galleria on one side, the Quadrilatero della Moda on another, and the charming Brera neighbourhood just steps away, Casa Brera's location branches out to many of Milan's major streets and is within walking distance to almost all neighbourhoods. Modern-contemporary interiors with a retro flare, comfortable rooms, enough lobby space to lounge and a laidback atmosphere, Casa Brera is perfect for a short or long stay; especially if you want to be within reach of everything on foot.
A grand hotel in the charming neighbourhood of Brera, Palazzo Parigi offers a luxurious stay just a stone's throw from the city centre. The hotel is within walking distance to many major landmarks like Pinacoteca di Brera and Piazza Il Duomo, as well as the Quadrilatero della Moda; but its quieter address also means it's nestled away from its busy surroundings. The rooms have a Parisian-luxury feel to them, and the garden terrace for breakfast is simply beautiful. For a more high-end experience in a central location, Palazzo Parigi is a great choice.
FOOD & DINING
RESTAURANTS
Old and traditional with the typical charm of a trattoria, this restaurant is a wonderful experience of Milanese cuisine in a homely atmosphere. Think checkered floors and antique wood, lace curtains, white table cloths, and vested waiters. The menu serves all the best Milanese classics, but the ossobucco here is particularly excellent - fork tender meat in a flavourful broth sauce served with a perfectly cooked saffron risotto. This is one of Milan's most famous dishes and Trattoria Della Pesa is one of the best places to try it. Located near the busy Corso Como and just a short walk from Brera. Reservations recommended for lunch or dinner.
For good Milanese cuisine in a traditional setting and a cosy atmosphere, Nuova Arena checks all the right boxes. This small family-run restaurant is easy to miss, but it is a wonderful surprise inside. Its warm lighting and closely set tables create a pleasant intimacy, and the menu is generally traditional Milanese with a few seasonal changes. Go specifically for the Mondeghili and Risotto Milanese, two house specialties that cannot be missed (they're also some of the best in the city); the Costoletta is also excellent. Cosy, charming and very delightful. Book in advance.
A classic Milan establishment, Giacomo's group of restaurants all offer a different and unique experience. The original and historic restaurant on via Sottocorno is of course the first to visit. Serving a seafood-focused menu in a gorgeous green dining room, Da Giacomo offers a refined dining experience in a classic but fashionable atmosphere. Just around the corner, the Bistrot is set in an old-world library for a warm and cosy feel; whereas the Rosticceria offers a more informal and homely experience in a trattoria and garden, and the Tabaccheria is perfect for coffee, drinks, and a snack. For a scenic setting, the Arengario rooftop location overlooks the Duomo with a balcony terrace ideal for drinks; and just a short walk from there at Palazzo Reale is the literary Caffé.
Set in a historic palace and courtyard on the fashionable Via Montenapoleone, this is one of Milan's most renowned restaurants and a beloved favourite among locals, celebrities and fashion crowds. Elegant, upscale and lively from lunch to dinner, Il Salumaio is all about the atmosphere. The main dining room is beautiful with its old palazzo-style setting, but the real attraction and one of the main reasons to go is the courtyard outside (when the weather is right). Reservations are essential for a courtyard table. The menu offers typical Italian/Milanese cuisine with a nice variety of cheese and cold cuts from their salumeria (this is what they do they best), as well as bigger plates/courses. The food takes a back seat to the ambiance, but their famous burrata is essential and their homemade pasta dishes are a good choice. Go for a light lunch or a nibble-y dinner, and just enjoy the atmosphere.
One of Milan's more 'iconic' restaurants, Osteria Del Binari offers traditional Milanese cuisine in a romantic Art-Deco dining room and a beautiful garden-house type terrace. The menu offers all the Milanese staples in a simple and straightforward way; it's slightly outdated but there's nothing wrong with the food. The real highlight here is the garden atmosphere, especially if the weather is pleasant; make sure to specify a table outside when reserving. Set on the other side of Milan in Navigli, it's a decent choice in the area.
An old-fashioned, family-run trattoria from the 1920s for traditional specialties and a nostalgic atmosphere. Trattoria Masuelli is a city classic with a longstanding reputation among locals (and an attraction for visitors too). The menu offers typical Milanese dishes, but go specifically for the saffron risotto (without the ossobuco, which can be a hit or miss) and the veal costoletta. For the best of both dishes, order the Il Solare off the Buon Ricordo menu. For dessert, their crema di mascarpone is not to be missed. Reservations required.
For typical Italian cuisine with a more contemporary take, Veramente is an excellent choice in Brera. Modern-retro interiors in a light-filled space and fun music in the background, it's great for lunch or dinner. With a diverse menu of starters, pizzas, pastas and main courses, Veramente is easy to please. Their signature vitello tonnato is remarkable and an essential plate to order; as is their focaccia-dough pizzas and homemade pici al ragu. Very good, high-quality food in a lively atmosphere among locals; and just steps away from the busy streets of Brera. Walk-ins welcome if they're not busy.
For traditional cuisine in an elegant setting, Stendhal is one of Brera's best dining spots. A deep-green dining room studded with 19th century memorabilia and a gorgeous terrace outdoors, the atmosphere is both refined and inviting. The menu offers both Milanese classics as well as a variety of Italian dishes; and anything marked as a 'historic Stendhal dish' is highly recommended. One of their standout creations is the Tonarello Verde al Ragú Bianco (homemade green tonnarello pasta with a creamy white veal mince and a drizzle of truffle oil) - this is absolutely excellent and is alone worth going for. The saffron risotto here is rich, creamy and flavourful; served as a dish of its own or alongside slow-cooked ossobuco. The thick-cut veal costoletta is also crisp yet tender. For dessert, the zabaione is deliciously creamy, served with sbrisolona (an almond crumble) for crunch; but the Tiramisu here is even better. A pleasant lunch or dinner choice in the area.
Getting a table at Trippa is a difficult feat and for good reason. This neo-trattoria headed by Chef Diego Rossi is one of Milan's hottest culinary destinations for locals and travellers alike. Their famous and now iconic tagliatelle al burro put Trippa on the map, and it is very much the main reason to go - silky handmade ribbons of pasta tossed in a smooth, velvety emulsion of rich butter and parmesan cheese. Perfectly balanced and portioned; not a crack of pepper nor a pinch of extra cheese necessary. This is the one dish you'll see on every table, but everything else on the menu is just as remarkable and praise-worthy. Simple but thoughtful dishes put together using high-quality, seasonal ingredients and everything is just very, very good. If the vitello tonnato is on, it's absolutely essential; the tagliatelle al burro is not to be shared; and their cheesecake is the best finale to it all. Reservations open a month in advance. There's also a waiting list for same or next day reservations, but your best bet is to check the website for last-minute openings.
One of Milan's hottest names on the culinary scene, Rovello 18 is a modern take on the traditional trattoria. With modern-bistro interiors, tables overlooking an open-kitchen as well as counter seating, it makes for a lively and entertaining dining experience. The seasonal menu is sophisticated but straightforward, with a focus on quality ingredients and simplicity. Some of their classic staples include the vitello tonato, spaghetti cacio e pepe and signature veal milanese. For dessert, look for the cold zabaione or the creamy baked cheesecake. Good and simple food with a gourmet touch. Reservations required.
CAFFES & APERITIVO
Just a short walk from Piazza Il Duomo, Giacomo's Caffe in Palazzo Reale is a charming little place for a morning coffee or afternoon break in the area. They also serve a breakfast menu from their pasticceria as well as small dishes for lunch.
A historic pastry shop and one of the oldest in Milan, Marchesi 1824 is an 'haute patisserie' with only four boutiques in the world - three of them in Milan. Their shops are gorgeously decorated in 18th century Art Deco furnishings, their signature pistachio-green wallpaper, and antique displays of pastel-coloured cakes Marie-Antoinette style. The original shop sits on Via Santa Maria alla Porto, with two more modern and fashionable locations in Galleria Vittorio Emanuele above Prada and one on Via Monte Napoleone.
Designed by Wes Anderson in his signature style, Bar Luce looks and feels like a café straight out of his films. Candy-coloured interiors with a retro-diner feel, Bar Luce serves cakes and sandwiches with a side of nostalgia. Located at Fondazione Prada, it's an ideal place to stop before or after your visit to the museum. A dream space if you're a fan of Wes Anderson.
An iconic bar to enjoy aperitivo hour in Milan. Named after one of the city's most popular liquers, Camparino in Galleria Vittoria Emanuele is one of the best places to try the classic Negroni or any Campari based cocktail. Its location at the Galleria means it's always busy, but it is an exciting atmosphere to sit down for drinks and people-watching.
There are plenty of gelaterias around Milan, but Vero remains unmatched in both flavour and consistency. Smooth and creamy consistency with a velvety texture; served at the right temperature for gelato, it's perfectly soft and ready to eat. All natural flavours and very rich in taste. The pistachio is especially remarkable. If you like a softer gelato, this one is for you. Located on the busy Corso Garibaldi near Brera, just a short walk from Stendhal and Veramente.
For the best affogato in Milan, Umberto 1934 is the equivalent of Florence's Vivoli (if you know, you know!). The gelato itself is delightful on its own, with a soft and smooth consistency, but go specifically for their signature affogato - scooped into frozen coffee mugs with a shot of espresso. Their crema flavour is great, but the pistachio is more special. Within walking distance from Villa Necchi Campiglio or Da Giacomo.
PLACES TO VISIT & THINGS TO DO
PIAZZA DEL DUOMO
In the historic centre of Milan, crowned by the famous Duomo, the main square is a great place to start exploring the city. It's surrounded by other major landmarks on all sides and within walking distance to popular neighbourhoods like Brera and Monte Napoleone. The cathedral requires pre-purchased tickets for entrance; the queues can be long but they move fairly quickly and it is certainly worth the wait.
GALLERIA VITTORIO EMANUELE II
To the left of Il Duomo, Galleria Vittorio Emanuele is one of Milan's most iconic landmarks and Italy's oldest shopping gallery. A beautiful, light-filled arcade lined with luxury boutiques and cafés; its stunning 19th-century architecture and glass ceiling alone is worth visiting. Stop for a sweet treat at Marchesi 1824 or an afternoon aperitivo at Camparino. Connecting the Duomo on one end and Teatro alla Scala on the other, it also makes for an ideal stroll between two landmarks. Visit in the morning as well as later at night for two completely different atmospheres.
Just across the Duomo and the Galleria in Piazza della Scala, this art museum displays a collection of 19th-20th century paintings. Housed in a beautiful old bank, Gallerie d'Italia's setting is just as impressive as its artwork. It's also just around the corner from Teatro all Scala if you're planning a visit.
Considered the main public gallery in Milan, Pinacoteca di Brera houses a large collection of paintings and artwork from the 13th to 20th centuries. Set in a palazzo with a spacious courtyard, it's a wonderful escape for an hour or two in the heart of the bustling Brera neighbourhood. Tickets are available on arrival with almost no wait time.
Da Vinci's mural masterpiece and one of the most famous paintings in the world is still located in its original place, on the dining room wall of the Santa Maria delle Grazie convent. Tickets can sell out weeks if not months in advance, so pre-booking as soon as possible is highly recommended.
This contemporary art museum is one of Milan's most popular cultural hubs. Housed in a unique complex of buildings, Fondazione Prada offers an immersive experience throughout. Alongside its permanent collection are temporary exhibits/experiences, some of which are interactive. Make sure to visit Wes Anderson's Bar Luce as well just outside the museum. It's a little far out from the city centre but worth the visit if you're into modern art.
Dedicated to interdisciplinary arts, MUDEC is another popular hub for contemporary art, culture and community. There's always a unique programme of temporary exhibitions to check out and the museum space itself is interesting to see. Located near Navigli on the other side of Milan's city centre for a quick visit in the area.
This former family residence is a testament to Milan's prominence in design & architecture. Built in the 1930s for the Necchi Campiglio family, today the villa stands as a landmark of its own. With gorgeous daytime areas on the ground floor (including a grand salon and dining room, library, office, and smoking room); private bedrooms, bathrooms and changing rooms on the first floor; and a spacious garden oasis that nestles the villa away from the outside world. There's so much to see in every room. The villa is a wonderful view of Italian Art-Deco in situ and a look into the life of an aristocratic family. A must see in Milan.
SHOPPING
GALLERIA VITTORIO EMANUELE II
One of the oldest shopping galleries in the world, Galleria Vittorio Emanuele is a beautiful Renaissance arcade lined with luxury boutiques and brands, as well as bars and cafés. Ideally situated in the heart of the city, adjacent to Piazza del Duomo.
BRERA
A charming neighbourhood with character and atmosphere, Brera's cobble-stoned streets, boutique shops, and antique facades makes it a wonderful area to explore where one alley leads onto another like a small maze.There are also plenty of restaurants and cafés for a quick afternoon break or lunch in the area, and it's just a short walk to other landmarks like Pinacoteca di Brera, Museo Poldi Pozzoli, and Teatro alla Scala.
For traditional and tailored luxury, Telerie Spadari is a classic institution for fabrics. Everything from table and bed linen, towels, and nightwear is hand tailored using the finest textiles; with a big display of ready-made items as well as different fabrics to customise. Just a short walk from Galleria Vittorio Emanuele.