EMPIRE TRAVELLER

TO STAY

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BELMOND GRAND HOTEL:​ A grand and iconic 140 year-old building on Nevsky Prospekt, Belmond's Grand Hotel is one of the best places to stay in St Petersburg. Located in the cultural hub of the city and adjacent to Arts Square, the hotel sits amongst the most famous attractions (within walking distance from the Church On Spilled Blood, The Hermitage, and St Isaac's Cathedral). Not to mention that its direct access to Nevsky makes it a whole lot easier to get around the city. An ideal and convenient place to stay if you want to be connected to the action. The hotel balances between five-star modern luxury and classic Russian splendour, so you'll still get a feel of the city in utmost comfort. Make sure to stop for breakfast in the grand hall, afternoon tea in the café just across, and a nightcap at the moody bar lounge.

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ASTORIA HOTEL: Also in the cultural centre of St Petersburg, Astoria is another great place to stay. Directly across St Isaac's Cathedral (with beautiful views of the building), the hotel's prime address connects you to the cultural and historical hub of the city; and though it doesn't have direct access to Nevsky Prospekt, it's still a short 15-20 min walk. A majestic hotel with Art Nouveau-style interiors and an unmissable grand exterior.

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PLACES TO VISIT​

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NEVSKY PROSPEKT: This is St Petersburg's main avenue and one of the city's busiest and most popular streets, stretching over 4.5km. Just walking through it you'll find plenty of restaurants, shops, and attractions along the way. A good place to start to get the feel of the city and to start navigating your way around.

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THE HERMITAGE: St Petersburg's largest and most celebrated museum, housed inside the grand and majestic Winter Palace. An iconic building on the outside and a beautiful wonder inside, the Hermitage is worth at least 2-3 hours of your time. The palace interiors are stunning, and the art collection is so huge you'll unlikely have time or energy to see it all in one day. Make a list of the artworks you're after and search for them inside. Visit really early in the morning or right before closing time to avoid the crowds, and purchase your ticket online to skip the long queues. Leaving your coats at the cloakroom is mandatory. Closed on Mondays.

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CHURCH ON SPILLED BLOOD: One of the city's most famous and iconic attractions, built in memory of Alexander II who was assassinated in 1881. The church sits on the spot where he was supposedly killed, hence earning its name. A short walk from the Hermitage just off of Nevsky Avenue, the Church On Spilled Blood's grand and colourful domes are recognisable from a distance. The interiors are just as breathtaking. Definitely worth visiting (purchase tickets outside or online if you're visiting in high season). Closed on Wednesdays.

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ST ISAAC'S CATHEDRAL: Just as iconic is St Isaac's Cathedral (the one with the golden dome), which may not look as unique as the Church On Spilled Blood on the outside but is even more impressive inside. Purchase tickets outside or online to the cathedral as well as the colonnade, from which you can enjoy a spectacular view over the city (be ware that it's a 200-step climb to the top). Closed on Wednesdays.

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CATHERINE'S PALACE: Second to the Winter Palace, Catherine's Palace (the tsars' summer residence) is just as beautiful and iconic. Located in the small town of Pushkin (or Tsarskoye Selo) 30km south of St Petersburg, you'll need to dedicate a half-day to visit but it's well worth it. This is also where you'll find the famous Amber Room (its history is pretty interesting, so read up on that). There are several ways to get to the palace, depending on your preferences (time, cost, and method). The cheapest way is to buy tickets to Pushkin from Vitebsky train station, and from Pushkin train station catch the bus (number 371 or 382) to Catherine’s Palace. The easier but more expensive way is to hire a taxi - if you're going to do this, make sure to settle final prices before riding with them and ask to wait for you at the palace (they will run a waiting fee, so make sure you agree to that as well).

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CHESME CHURCH: A small orthodox church in the middle of nowhere that looks a lot like something out of a Wes Anderson film. With a pink exterior and soothing white-and-gold interiors, this is one of St Petersburg's most unique churches. The most convenient way to plan your visit is if you're heading to Catherine's Palace by car; it should be on your way. 

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PETERHOF PALACE: A grand palace and garden complex in Petergof, around 40km or an hour's drive outside of St Petersburg. Commissioned by Peter the Great as a response to the Palace of Versailles, you'll see that the interiors are grand, majestic, and heavily adorned with gold. The gardens are vast and spacious with several fountains, but only worth visiting in the spring and summer (otherwise, there's not much to see when everything's still dead from the winter). The palace itself should not take longer than an hour to tour. Including the journey to and back, this will require a half-day. 

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PETER & PAUL FORTRESS: As St Petersburg's original citadel, the Peter & Paul Fortress sits on a small island of its own across from the Winter Palace. There, you can visit the museum and cathedral, take a stroll by the river and cross the bridge back to the Hermitage area. The scenery is really pleasant from here, especially in the afternoon. A good way to kill time if you have some to spare.

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ELISYEVE EMPORIUM: A historic retail store and food hall on Nevsky Avenue. The food hall is quite impressive with its Art Nouveau design and high ceilings, and its selection of gourmet products - everything from cheese and cold cuts, to pastries and confectionary. There's also a café inside if you want to grab a quick bite.​

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FOOD & DINING

*Ginza Project is a modern and trendy restaurant group with several locations around St Petersburg. Make this your go-to search engine if you're looking for dining options.*

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TSAR: Traditional Russian cuisine in an elegant but laidback atmosphere. *by Ginza

As the name promises, Tsar invites you to dine like Russian royalty in the heart of the city, without being overly opulent or pretentious. Furnished in darks woods and chandeliers, and beautiful French windows, the restaurant is a good spot for lunch or dinner just off of Nevsky Avenue. The menu offers a large selection of traditional dishes (everything you could imagine, really), so this is a good place to get acquainted with Russian cuisine. They also serve an excellent Caviar Tasting option: 3 types of caviar including Beluga, served with sour cream, rye bread and fritters paired with champagne or vodka (ask for their best locals). I came back at lunch specifically for this, and it was a delightful meal. If you're hungry for more, order the Royal Caviar Crepes and/or the Zucchini Marrow Pancakes with Smoked Salmon (both remarkable). For dinner, the Beef Stroganoff is amazing. Order the Honey Cake and Napoleon for dessert, and ask for their homemade digestif to wash it all down.

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MARI VANNA: Traditional Russian cuisine in a cosy home-style atmosphere. *by Ginza

Mari Vanna is the cosier, countrified sister to Tsar and another great option for traditional Russian cuisine in a more laidback space. The restaurant is adorned with vintage décor pieces, mismatched furniture, and framed photographs; it feels intimate and nostalgic, like being invited into a Russian family home for dinner. The menu offers a large variety of traditional dishes, cooked and served in true homemade style. Order a selection of pickles and patties, borscht soup and cherry vareniki to start; the crab julienne is also superb. For mains, the Pozharsky Cutlet (minced chicken breaded in croutons) is super juicy with a crispy and buttery breading; the Chicken Kiev and Beef Stroganoff are also excellent. The dessert isn't remarkable, so enjoy filling up on starters and mains. The restaurant sits across the river from the Hermitage (10-15 min drive), but well-worth visiting for lunch or dinner.

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PALKIN: Sophisticated fine dining inspired by Russian cuisine.

You'll hear that this is one of the oldest hotspots among aristocrats as well as one of St Petersburg's most famous fine dining restaurants. Palkin provides an entire evening of table-side entertainment and sophisticated presentations; and a modern, refined take on Russian cuisine. The Kamchatka Crab is excellent here (big enough to share), and the traditional baked Sterlet Sturgeon is also good. But while Palkin has a rich history and a 'fine' reputation, I found it to be tedious, underwhelming, and unnecessarily fussy with its food presentation; not to mention that it was almost totally empty. An outdated Michelin-wannabe. Good option for a slow and entertaining dinner, but nothing remarkable. Located on Nevsky, an approx 30 min walk from the Hermitage.

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MAMALYGA: Comfort Georgian food in a casual atmosphere. *by Ginza

Georgian cuisine is a popular hit in St Petersburg, and for good reason. The food is filling and comforting, and packs a variety of flavours. Mamalyga, on Leninskiy just off of Nevsky Avenue, is a great spot to try out traditional Georgian dishes. The best thing here are the cheese-stuffed breads and pies, so go with an appetite and order several ones to try. There's also a good variety of meat and chicken dishes, as well as soups and salads for something light. The restaurant is cosy and casual; a fuss-free lunch option if you're in the area.

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TERRASSA: Food & drinks on a rooftop terrace. *by Ginza

Located off of Nevsky Avenue and overlooking the Kazansky Cathedral, Terrassa is an atmospheric spot for a rooftop lunch, dinner, or drinks with a view. Go for lunch or around sunset and request a table outside to enjoy your surroundings. The atmosphere inside is just as modern and spacious too. The menu is a diverse combination of Russian, Italian, and French food with a few Asian options as well. A cool and casual spot to check out.

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SINGER CAFÉ: Classic café & bookstore in a historical building on Nevsky.

The Singer House includes a multi-storeyed bookstore as well as a cosy café upstairs with floor to ceiling windows overlooking Nevsky Avenue and the Kazansky Cathedral. If you're walking down Nevsky, headed towards the Hermitage or coming back from it, look out for a big bookstore across from Kazansky. Browse through the large collection of books then pop upstairs for cake and coffee. The Honey Cake here is good, but the Cheesecake is even better - rich and dense yet super moist (probably the best dessert I had in St Petersburg). Take a table by the window and watch the Nevsky crowds down below. Open from breakfast till late.

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DORIS DAY COFFEE & CIVIL COFFEE BAR: Hip and artistic coffeeshops on the river embankment.

If you're into hip but lowkey cafés with quirky interiors and an artistic atmosphere, you'll love this spot. Doris Day and Civil Coffee Bar sit across from one another, in a hard-to-notice building tucked away on Fontanka River Embankment. They're hard to locate at first but worth looking for. First, get directions to Golitsyn Loft (a hidden round of restaurants and bars frequented by young, hip crowds). When you get to Golitsyn, enter through the very first door on your left and the cafés should be on the first or second floor of that building. Doris Day is a lot smaller, whereas Civil looks and feels like a student loft with super cool interiors and a youthful atmosphere - worth checking out.

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PYSHECHNAYA 1958: Traditional Russian donuts.

Pyshechnaya 1958 has made a name for itself as one of St Petersburg's most popular or iconic donut shops. Located on Bolshaya Konyushennaya Street just off of Nevsky, mostly crowded with locals (you'll probably need to practice your order in Russian or ask someone to help - there are only 2 things you can really order anyway: a plate of donuts and their house coffee). It's not exactly amazing, but check it out to satisfy the curiosity. There are plenty of other spots to get your donut fix, so don't worry about skipping this one.

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TRAVELING TIPS

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1. Visit in the spring or summer for a better experience of the city. It's something else entirely when everything is in bloom (especially palace gardens), it's a lot easier to walk around, and it's just more pleasant for your first visit.

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2. Try to familiarise yourself with the Russian alphabet and learn a few words. Expect to see and hear almost everything in Russian. Even in the most touristic places, the locals' English is (generally) extremely limited. Download a translating app to have on hand and you'll be fine.

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3. Be well aware of their taxi system and general fees. Besides official taxi companies, there are plenty of 'alternative cabs' that will stop if you hail for a ride - basically locals or unregistered taxi drivers who work as individuals. Unless you bargain a fixed price, official taxis can be stupidly expensive. Download Yandex (the Russian Uber) for much better prices - almost half of what you'd pay a taxi.

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4. Choose your hotel address wisely. If it's your first time in St Petersburg, stay somewhere near Nevsky Avenue. It will save you time and effort to be close to almost everything you'll want to see on your first visit.

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5. If you're visiting during high seasons, purchase tickets online in advance to skip the long queues.

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6. St Petersburg is huge. Unless you take a cab everywhere or the metro, be prepared to walk long distances. Make a rough plan of the places you want to visit and the proximity of each one to the other. 

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7. As a city, St Petersburg is pretty laidback and modest. No need to overdress or be flashy if you don't want to stand out.

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