SAINT PETERSBURG, RUSSIA
As the crown jewel of Russia and its second largest city, Saint Petersburg offers a rich experience of Russian history and culture. The city maintains a timeless allure in its ornate cathedrals, palatial museums, and Neoclassical architecture; it's old, historic, and absolutely beautiful with stunning river views, picturesque canals and larger-than-life buildings. This Eastern European gem of a city has plenty to offer.
TO STAY
This Belmond hotel is an excellent place to stay in Saint Petersburg, set in a grand 150-year-old building on Nevsky Prospekt. Ideally located in the cultural hub of the city and adjacent to the Arts Square, Grand Hotel Europe sits amongst the most famous attractions; within walking distance from the Church On Spilled Blood, The Hermitage, and St Isaac's Cathedral to name a few, it's a convenient place to set out and explore. The hotel beautifully blends Belmond's five-star luxury with classic Russian splendour, Art Nouveau interiors, and vintage glamour. A very enjoyable stay.
PLACES TO VISIT
NEVSKY PROSPEKT
This is Saint Petersburg's main avenue and the cultural hub of the city, stretching over 4.5 km. Lined with historical buildings and landmarks, restaurants and shops, it's a great place to start exploring the city. This is where you'll find Church of Our Saviour On Spilled Blood, the Singer House and Anichkov Bridge to name a few.
Saint Petersburg's largest and most celebrated art museum, set inside the grand and majestic Winter Palace. A larger-than-life building on the outside and a beautiful wonder inside, the Hermitage is an essential visit not only for its impressive art collection but its stunning palatial interiors as well. There's plenty to see here, which means you can easily spend anything from two to four hours inside. Purchase tickets in advance and plan your visit as early as possible in the morning. It also helps to list or map out the artworks you're most interested in seeing.
CHURCH OF OUR SAVIOUR ON SPILLED BLOOD
One of the most famous sites in Saint Petersburg, built in memory of Emperor Alexander II after his 1881 assassination. The church sits directly over the spot where he supposedly died and it remains a beloved landmark to this day. Its magnificent height, colourful exterior and tiled domes is easy to spot from a distance; and its interior is just as stunning. Just off of Nevsky Prospekt and a short walk from The Hermitage Museum, the Church Of Our Saviour On Spilled Blood is an essential stop on your historic tour. Purchase tickets in advance (closed Wednesdays).
Another historic icon is St Isaac's Cathedral (the one with the golden dome). It looks like a more traditional cathedral on the outside but it's absolutely incredible inside. You can also enjoy sweeping views of the city from the colonnade (bearing in mind it's a 200-step climb). Closed on Wednesdays.
Second to the Winter Palace, Catherine's Palace (the tsars' summer residence) is an architectural masterpiece to visit. The palace is a beautiful blend of Baroque, Rococo and Neoclassical architecture with grandiose interiors that include a stunning gold-gilded ballroom, various dining rooms and private suites, a throne room and an entire chapel, the world-famous Amber Room, estate-size gardens... and that's not even half of it. No two rooms are alike but they're all equally astounding in opulence. The palace is located in the small town of Pushkin (Tsarskoye Selo) just 30 km south of Saint Petersburg, around an hour's drive. It will also take a few hours to tour but it's a half-day trip well worth it.
CHESME CHURCH
This pink & white Gothic church is one of the most unique landmarks in the country, and it's worth going out of the way to visit. Set amongst nothing but trees in the middle of nowhere, its distinctive fairytale-like exterior really stands out. The whole scene feels like something from a Wes Anderson film. The most convenient way to visit is on the way out to Catherine's Palace if you're going by car.
A grand palace and garden complex in Petergof town, Peterhof Palace is considered the Russian equivalent of the Palace of Versailles. The palace is beautifully elevated above garden grounds and fountain steps with a vibrant blue & yellow exterior. Inside is an array of ceremonial halls, state rooms and a grand imperial staircase to dazzle. The sprawling gardens and fountains are also worth a wander if the weather permits. The palace itself shouldn't take longer than an hour to tour, but it's about an hour's drive out from the city.
PETER & PAUL FORTRESS
The first structure to be built in Saint Petersburg and the city's original citadel, the Peter & Paul Fortress sits on a small island of its own across The Hermitage. You can cross one of the bridges on either side of the island and walk down to the fortress, where there's a church and museum to visit. It's a less remarkable site to visit, but the overall scenery is beautiful in the afternoon and it's a nice stroll back and forth to The Hermitage.
ELISEYEV EMPORIUM
A historic retail shop and food hall on Nevsky Prospekt, Eliseyev Emporium is very much a significant part of Saint Petersburg culture and a striking example of Russian Art Nouveau architecture. With whimsical interiors and an old-world feel, it's a delightful place to browse a selection of gourmet products and confectionary. There's also a café inside for a quick afternoon break.
FOOD & DINING
For traditional and home-style Russian cuisine, Mari Vanna is a delightful taste of old-fashioned cooking. Adorned with rustic furniture, pointelle lace and antiques, the restaurant is as cosy and nostalgic as a babushka's home. The menu is equally comforting, with a big variety of traditional dishes like pickled salads and hot soups, pies, vareniki, beef stroganoff and chicken kiev. Finish with a cup of tea and honey cake. The restaurant is just across the river from The Hermitage, around a 10-minute drive from the museum and it's open all day. A cosy and comforting experience.
Set in a historic mid-century apartment with antique dining rooms and a heavily classic atmosphere, this old-world restaurant feels very much like a scene from a Russian novel. It is, after all, inspired by the writings of the Russian writer Nikolai Gogol. The restaurant serves typical Russian food in a simple and subtly refined manner. Expect a variety of salted fish and meat patés, pickled salads, broth soups, warm fish and meat dishes, stuffed pies, and a selection of homemade liqueurs to wash it down. Just a short walk from Nevsky Prospekt, Gogol makes for a theatric setting and dining experience.
Georgian/Caucasian cuisine is quite common in Saint Petersburg and Mamalyga was one of the more popular places for it. The menu offers a variety of regional specialties like kachapuri, shashliks and slow-cooked stews. Simple, comforting food in a rustic setting. Located just off of Nevsky Avenue, it's a convenient spot for a casual lunch.
For panoramic city views and a modern setting, Terrassa is a rooftop spot overlooking the Kazansky Cathedral just off of Nevsky Prospekt. Book a table outside for lunch or at sunset to enjoy the view. The menu is a diverse fusion of French, Italian and Asian, which means there's something for any taste.
Located in the original Singer House, headquarters of the world-famous Singer Sewing Machine Company, this building is a significant part of Russian heritage. Café Singer includes a large bookstore downstairs and a classic European coffeeshop above with floor to ceiling windows overlooking Nevsky Prospekt and the Kazan Cathedral. A pleasant spot for a coffee break in the area, and a chance to visit this historic landmark.
An iconic institution with a retro-diner feel, Pyschechnaya has served one thing and one thing only since 1958: a plate of hot, deep-fried pyshki (Russian doughnuts) with a cup of house-brewed coffee. Located down Bolshaya Konyushennaya just off of Nevsky, it's nice for a quick snack among locals and travellers alike.
DORIS DAY COFFEE & CIVIL COFFEE BAR
Tucked away in the artsy Golitsyn Loft apartments, Doris Day & Civil Coffee Bar are both young and hip spots to hang out among locals. Once you locate the Golitsyn Loft just off of Fontanka, the coffeehouses should be on the first or second floor of that building. Worth checking out for their unique interiors, laidback atmosphere and artsy crowd.
TRAVELING TIPS
1. Visit in the spring or summer for a better experience of the city. The scenery and landmarks are more enjoyable (and visible) during warmer months than when it's covered in snow, and it's a lot easier to walk around. Russian winter is brutal, and it will be more challenging to explore.
2. Choose a convenient location to stay, preferably on or around Nevsky Avenue. This puts you within walking distance of all the major landmarks and makes it easier to explore the city on foot.
3. Purchase tickets to major sites and landmarks in advance to save time and guarantee availability, especially during busier seasons.
4. Try to familiarise yourself with the Russian alphabet and learn a few words to get by. Expect to see and hear almost everything in Russian, even in the most touristic places. The locals' English is generally limited, so just be mindful when communicating. It helps to have a translating app with a camera on hand.
5. Be well aware of their taxi system and fees. Besides official taxi companies, there are plenty of 'alternative cabs' that will stop if you hail for a ride - these are generally locals or unregistered taxi drivers who work independently.
6. Saint Petersburg is a big city. You can see and do a lot on foot around the Nevsky Prospekt, but it is a lot of walking; so map out your activities for an understanding of how close or far things are from each other.
7. Be mindful and respectful of Russian culture. Though they do get a lot of travellers and tourists, city locals are generally more formal and reserved and it's nothing personal.