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BUDAPEST, HUNGARY
As one of Europe's most culturally rich cities, Budapest is an unmissable destination for those who enjoy art, history, and unique cuisine. The city is stylistically diverse, combining the sophistication of European culture with the historical heritage of most Eastern countries (imagine a crossover between Vienna and Moscow). The impact of 20th century communism is relatively present in Budapest, meaning it's not a particularly "glamorous" city as most of its facilities are modest and dated; it's quite inexpensive and easy to see on foot, making it both an interesting and convenient budget-pick. Where Budapest lacks, however, it certainly makes up for it in history and culture - there's a lot to see and experience, from cathedrals and castles, to thermal baths and family bistros. It's not for every one, but if you appreciate Eastern European culture, then Budapest is essential.
TO STAY
BOSCOLO HOTEL: Part of the five-star Autograph Collection, Boscolo is a 19th century palace in the heart of the city. The hotel's baroque-style luxury maintains Budapest's legacy as a muse for art, culture, and civilisation. The interior architecture is rich with grand pillars and marble, brocades, and ancient frescoes. Most of the rooms are generously spacious (particularly the Superior and Deluxe); they appear a little dated, but comfort and cleanliness are not compromised. Breakfast is served in the gorgeous New York Café, usually accompanied by classical music in the background. The spa facilities are stylistically out of place, but offer an extensive list of treatments. Location-wise, Boscolo's surrounding neighbourhood is not particularly glamorous or scenic - it's dated and modest, capturing the less-fortunate side of Budapest; however, its close proximity to several important sites is an advantage. For a more historical and "downtown" experience, I recommend staying at Boscolo.
GRESHAM PALACE: Originally an art nouveau landmark, Gresham Palace was transformed into a Four Seasons hotel - combining both historical elegance and modern-chic accommodation for a five-star experience. The entrance is breathtakingly grand, with a large glass-dome illuminating the entire space. Rooms are of the typical Four Seasons' French-American style, providing residential comfort and soothing ambience; I particularly recommend the river-view rooms. The dining facilities are of good standard, but lack a sense of Hungarian atmosphere; the spa facilities, however, are excellent. Location-wise, Gresham Palace is fully advantaged - the hotel sits at the centre of Pest in the fifth district, overlooking the Danube River and the famous Chain Bridge. Its neighbourhood is certainly more lush and lively than Boscolo's, and also closer to the Buda side of the city. For a more polished and refined experience, I recommend staying at Gresham.
FOOD & DINING
NANCSI NENI: Hortobagyi Pancakes - Chicken Broth Soup - Veal Stew with Nokedli - Sesame Breaded Chicken - Baked Turos Csusza - Somloi Galuska - Soufflé - Curd Cheese Dumpling
Arguably one of Budapest's most authentic restaurants and, personally, my best experience of Hungarian cuisine. A 17th century farmhouse located a little outside of Buda's centre (approx. 20-25 mins by car from Castle Hill), making it a great option after touring the area. Nancsi Neni offers a homestyle experience in a warm wood-cabin atmosphere with checkered table cloths and candles, and hospitable service. The food is delicious and comforting, as though a team of Hungarian grandmothers is cooking away in the kitchen! Their menu is strictly traditional but diverse (there's something for everyone). The portions are also extremely generous, so go with an appetite! For starters, Hortobagyi Pancakes are crepe-like rolls filled with shredded chicken, topped with warm paprika sauce - bursting with flavour. The Broth Soup is a Hungarian staple, very light and comforting. For mains, the Veal Stew & Nokedli Dumplings is unmissable; also a very traditional dish of tenderly braised veal cubes in flavoursome stew sauce, served with flour-based noodle dumplings - food for the soul! They serve similar dishes with chicken and paprika sauce as well. The Sesame Breaded Chicken served with green salad in a creamy mayo-based dressing was good, but not particularly special. To share, I highly recommend the Turos Csusza; a traditional dish of pasta squares baked with whipped curd cheese and crispy pancetta - incredibly tasty and unique, the salty pancetta complements the tanginess of the cheese really well. For dessert, the Somloi Galuska (profiterole/cake) and Soufflé were alright, but the real highlight is the Curd Cheese Dumpling. This is a uniquely Hungarian dish of acquired taste (not even the waiter enjoys it) - a huge ball of curd cheesecake dressed in sour cream, served with toasted breadcrumbs; it's extremely dense, heavy, and cheesy! Not particularly sweet or enjoyable (for long), but definitely worth a try. An overall memorable experience of Hungarian tradition and cuisine here, unparalleled elsewhere.
GUNDEL: Honey Goat Cheese - Soup Trio - Goose Liver Cake with Quince - Deer Sirloin - Lava Cake - Mousse Cake
Gundel is one of Budapest's more upscale restaurants, serving traditional but refined Hungarian cuisine in a classic-smart atmosphere. This is a good choice for dinner following the opera, as it maintains a similar ambience of elegance. The service is prompt and professional, and dinner is accompanied by a live-band playing in the background. A selection of goat cheese complemented by fig & plum jams was an excellent starter; each type was full of unique flavour. As for the Soup Trio, served as tasting portions, we tried the Cream of Asparagus, Tarragon Ragout, and Quail Essence with Egg - I recommend skipping the latter two. The Goose Liver Cake is a must-have - delicious layers of foie gras pâté with a sweet crumbled layer of quince; a delightful combination of flavours. To follow, the oven-baked Deer Sirloin, served with pumpkin purée and carrots, was incredibly tender; the meat is rich but not fatty, and nicely complemented by brown sauce on the side. For dessert, the Lava Cake is good but dense, with slightly bitter afternotes of dark chocolate; the flourless Mousse Cake, however, is great; light but rich in chocolate. An overall pleasant experience of refined Hungarian food. I recommend booking in advance and dressing smartly.
CAFÉ GERBEAUD: Breakfast - Lunch - Pastries - Coffee
One of Europe's greatest and most celebrated coffeehouses with a wonderful past, Café Gerbeaud is over a century old yet maintains its elegant ambience, grand interiors, and quality confectionary originally perfected by Emil Gerbeaud himself. The place is gorgeously decorated in French Rococo style, with grand chandeliers and exotic wood/marble; also reminiscent of traditional Viennese cafés. This is a great spot for a morning coffee or an afternoon break, and their pastries are delectable. Located in the fifth district in Vorosmarty Square, the heart of downtown Budapest and near the popular shopping street Vaci Utca.
MOLNAR BAKERY: Chimney Cakes
No doubt you'll be in search of good chimney cakes (known as Kurtoskalacs, a traditional spiralled-dough pastry) throughout Budapest, and Molnar has some of the best in the city. Warm and golden kurtoskalacs served fresh out the oven; they're offered in various coatings such as chocolate sprinkles, cinnamon sugar, coconut or almond flakes, as well chocolate or whipped cream fillings. They also serve sinfully chocolatey hot cocoa, which is great for dipping the cakes. Located on Vaci street. A great place to hide out from the cold and warm yourself up with a treat!
FIRST STRUDEL HOUSE OF BUDAPEST: Traditional Strudel Pastries
This is one of Budapest's most famous places to enjoy traditional strudel. This rustic pastry house offers a dining menu, in addition to its extensive list of strudel flavours. All pastry items are handled and baked right in front of you! Although you could find equally delicious strudels elsewhere around the city, this is a fun place to see the baker's process and taste different fillings. Strudel House is not far off from the Hungarian Parliament and is only a corner away from St Stephen's Basilica, making it a good lunch spot in between.
PLACES TO VISIT & THINGS TO DO
BUDA vs PEST: It's important to note the difference between the Buda side and Pest side of the city when planning your visit. Pest is more modern and urban, where you'll find most hotels, restaurants, and shops; whereas Buda is more historical and residential, where you'll find most sites and landmarks.
CASTLE HILL: Located in Buda and recognised as a World Heritage Site, this is a great place to start on your historical site-seeing; here you'll find several noteworthy landmarks that can be seen in a few hours. The district also captures much of Budapest's cultural and historical character - from Gothic arches and medieval churches, to Baroque houses and cobblestone streets. Start with Buda Castle (the Baroque-style royal palace of Hungarian monarchs); inside are located the Hungarian National Gallery and the History Museum, where you can see Hungary's most prized art collections and historical artefacts. From there on, continue your tour of Castle Hill on foot.
MATTHIAS CHURCH & FISHERMAN'S BASTION: From the Buda Castle, a 10-15 minute walk will take you to Trinity Square where you'll find three more landmarks to see. The Holy Trinity Statue is a gorgeous 18th century column in the centre, said to have been built to protect the people of Hungary after the bubonic plague. Just around the corner is the Matthias Church, known for its Gothic architecture and colourful mosaic rooftops; walk around to its main entrance and see its mesmerising interiors. Right across from the church is Fisherman's Bastion, a Gothic/Romanesque terrace and lookout tower above the Danube River; here you'll experience one of the most beautiful panoramic views of Budapest.
*Tip: Once you've finished touring Castle Hill, take a 20-25 minute ride to Nancsi Neni for lunch!*
CITADELLA: Located atop Gellert Hill in Buda, the Citadel is a 19th century fortification and lookout tower, with another of Budapest's best panoramic views. There, you can also visit the famous St Gellert Monument and Cave Church. To get there from Pest, walk across the famous Liberty Bridge by the river (right next to Great Market Hall); and from thereon climb up to Gellert Hill either by bus or on foot (although the slopes make it tedious, and definitely inconvenient with snow).
HUNGARIAN PARLIAMENT: Located in Pest, the national Parliament is a remarkable landmark worthy of a tour. The building itself is unmissable - recognised as the third largest parliament building in the world (housing 691 rooms, 27 gates, 29 staircases, and 10 courtyards), and admired for its symmetrical Gothic design. The architecture is an intricate work of art, comprised of Gothic arches, pillars, and windows; the interior is even more breathtaking, where you'll see ancient frescoes, intricate niches, stained-glass, and more. What is truly unmissable is seeing the dome from inside and hearing about its historical significance. The Hungarian Parliament is open for tours from 9 am to 5 pm; all tours are guided (approx 45 mins long) and allotted certain times according to language. I suggest taking a look at the schedule in advance; you can book tickets online or on-site.
ST STEPHEN'S BASILICA: This is Budapest's largest church, also located in Pest. A beautiful Roman Catholic basilica built in neo-classical architecture, standing 96m high with two bell towers (where Hungary's largest bell hangs). Inside, the basilica is tall and spacious, displaying intricate artwork and architectural brilliancy. I recommend visiting St Stephen's earlier in the day to enjoy the sunlight.
SZÉCHENYI THERMAL BATHS: The city's largest and most popular thermal bath, as well as one of Europe's biggest natural hot-springs. With 18 different pools inside and outside open every day of the year, Széchenyi offers a traditional and medicinal experience - an unmissable activity in Budapest. You can enjoy geothermal pools, saunas, gym, and massages. I recommend bringing your own supplies (bathing suit, towels, slippers, etc) for health reasons.
HEROES SQUARE & CITY PARK: A large monument commemorating Hungarian national leaders, especially beautiful to see at night. From thereon you can enjoy a walk through Budapest's public park. Right next to Heroes Square also sits the Museum of Fine Art, housing a large collection of European art (amongst which you'll find works by Titian, Raphael, Goya, Van Dyck, and Vélazquez to name a few).
GREAT MARKET HALL: Located in Pest next to Liberty Bridge, this is a large market hall for traders and visitors. The neogothic hall is lined with stalls of fresh produce (some of the largest, most colourful vegetables you'll ever see), dried meats, local spices, linens, and more. Upstairs is where the real fun begins: you'll find many stalls selling traditional Hungarian street food, many of which are of abnormal size! Have fun experimenting with different things, but don't miss out on the Langos - freshly deep-fried dough served with toppings of your choice (like a flatbread); a delicious Hungarian specialty.
VACI STREET: Walk along the Danube River and turn on to Vaci - the city's biggest and most popular shopping street, lined with international stores, local boutiques, cafés, and restaurants (although I would avoid dining there, as most places are tourist traps). Don't miss some of the best chimney cakes here at Molnar's Bakery.
TRAVELING TIPS
1. Note the differences between the two sides of Budapest and plan your trip accordingly. I recommend staying in Pest and saving Buda for the site-seeing.
2. If you choose to stay in Pest, I recommend staying somewhere in district 5 or 6; this would be the most convenient and accessible location; it's a short walking distance to most sites.
3. Plan your day's activities according to location. It's more convenient to visit and do things on the same side of the city, instead of venturing back and forth across the river. It also helps to look at a map of the districts, to get a better sense of locations/proximity.
4. Because many of Budapest's landmarks are located atop hills, the heavy snow and icy grounds can make site-seeing a little difficult/inconvenient. Unless you're looking for cold weather, I recommend planning your holiday before the snow hits.
5. Be careful with your money and belongings, especially in districts further away from the centre. Some streets can get really dark and empty at night; strangers won't necessarily bother you, but it's easy to spot tourists.
6. Make sure you're familiar with the currency and standard transport prices; be especially cautious with taxi drivers, as some of them may take advantage of this.
7. The best place to truly enjoy and experience Hungarian cuisine is at a modest family-style bistro with history. Unlike French or Japanese cuisine, for example, Hungarian food should not be fussy; it's best prepared traditionally and generously. Restaurants that claim to modernise and refine traditional dishes are pretentious and usually unable to capture the essence of the cuisine (which should be hearty, comforting, and often too much to eat!)