LISBON, PORTUGAL
Lively, vibrant and energetic, Lisbon makes for an ideal spring-summer city break. Colourful streets lined with tiled buildings, retro-style trams, rustic taverns and breathtaking hilltop views, it has a charming small-town feel with plenty to explore. Local architecture, culture and cuisine are three things to plan your visit around - from historical castles and cathedrals, traditional taverns and bars, and a day-to-night excitement on the streets, Lisbon is fun and easy to enjoy.
TO STAY
An independent boutique hotel in a well-connected location. The Vintage is just a stone's throw from the cultural district of Principe Real, the lively Bairro Alto neighbourhood, the fashionable Avenida Liberdade as well as the historical hub of Chiado, making it an ideal base point to explore Lisbon on foot. In spite of its central location, however, the hotel sits on a quieter street away from the crowds. Contemporary mid-century interiors, comfortable loft-style bedrooms, as well as a homey lounge area and a scenic rooftop bar to hang out. It's young and hip with a laidback atmosphere; a very pleasant and convenient stay.
COFFEE & PASTRIES
An independent bakery, café and concept store all in one, Marquise de Mobler offers a nice selection of pastries and coffee in the morning, small plates and sandwiches in the afternoon, as well as handcrafts to buy. It's a pleasant little hideaway with a garden in the back for breakfast, an afternoon break or just a quick-grab from their bakery next door. Just a short walk from Principe Real and Bairro Alto.
A small specialty coffeeshop using beans from the renowned La Cabra in a bright and minimal space. Perfect for a quick but excellent coffee break near Principe Real.
This historical café and confectionery is one of Lisbon's classic institutions, dating back to the 19th century when it originally served as the royal family's official confectioner. Located in the cultural and historical hub of Baixa de Lisboa, the original store still sits on Praça da Figueira - a short walk from other landmarks like Elevador de Santa Justa, Rua Santa Augusta, and Praça do Comércio. Stop by for the interiors, the history, and a little something to go.
In the heart of Chiado, Brasileira is another Lisbon classic with an iconic Art-Deco facade and interior. It's one of the more touristic spots but it is a celebrated part of Lisbon's artistic and literary culture. Ideally located off the busy avenue of Rua Garrett, it's perfect for a quick coffee break and some people watching in a historic location.
The abundance of pastéis de nata in Lisbon is exciting, overwhelming, and deserves a tour of its own; and after one too many pastéis, it's rewarding to find the perfect one. Castro is exactly that. An artisanal atelier for an upscale and gourmet take on the national pastry. Perfectly crisp and flakey pastry shell, a rich vanilla filling with a crème brulée texture, a deliciously caramelised surface and a subtle aftertaste of brown butter - it ticks all the checkmarks of a perfect pastel de nata. One of the best to try.
Perhaps Lisbon's most famous and popular spot, Manteigaria's pastel de nata ranks high on the list for a reason. Always recommended by locals and travellers alike, and guaranteed to satisfy. The crisp, buttery pastry shell holds itself well with a shiny surface and a creamy but nicely set filling. It's a perfectly good pastel de nata, though it's lighter in colour and not as rich in flavour. There are several locations around Lisbon, with the original store located in Chiado on Rua do Loreto and another popular one on Rua Augusta.
Not to be mistaken with the generic pastry, the ones served here are completely exclusive to this historic institution and referred to only as Pastéis de Belém (though they do look and taste almost identical). The bakery still uses a secret, unchanged recipe from the monastery dating back to 1837 with hundreds of pastries baked fresh every day. Located a little outside the city centre next to the beautiful Jeronimos Monastery, Pastéis de Belém deserves a trip of its own. It's a big and spacious shop with plenty of seating and a few other bits on the menu, ideal for a break before or after visiting the monastery.
For one of the richest, most indulgent chocolate tortes in Lisbon, Landeau is the place for it. With only two locations (the original at LX Factory, another on Rua das Flores in Príncipe Real) and a single item on the menu. It's more of a dark chocolate mousse on a thin cake base, dusted with pure cocoa powder and a touch of salt for balance. Absolutely delectable.
FOOD & DINING
RESTAURANTS
This small, unassuming restaurant in Prîncipe Real serves some of the best local cuisine. With a loud and lively taverna-style setting, Faz Frio is loved among locals and travellers alike for the food and atmosphere. The menu rotates a variety of meat/fish options based on seasonality, with signature staples like cod fritters, buttered shrimp, and their famous brás de trufa dish (which is their unique take on a Portuguese classic and an essential order). Finish with a slice of sericaia (a regional egg-pudding dessert) and a glass of local moscatel. Open for lunch and dinner on a walk-in basis only.
Traditional but creative Portuguese food in a rustic tavern setting. Taberna Rua das Flores is one of those 'if-you-know-you-know' hot spots in Lisbon for regional cuisine and an excellent selection of wine. Tucked away on a narrow street just off of Praça Luis de Camões, Taberna Rua das Flores can be hard to spot if you're not looking for it (though the long queue outside can be an obvious tell). They don't take reservations and there's only a few tables to snag on a first-come basis. The best way to get a first seating is to line up at least a half hour before they open for lunch or dinner. A daily changing menu is written out on a chalkboard before each service and passed to each table for a run-down from the waiter. The menu is designed to order several dishes to share, ranging from smaller to larger plates; and their famous chocolate mousse (arguably the best in Lisbon) is not to be missed. It's a fun, laidback and intimate experience.
In the Alfama district, tucked a few steps below ground, awaits perhaps one of the best meals. Taberna Sal Grosso is another small, discreet tavern that is completely surprising but rightfully popular. Their seasonal menu has a generous variety to choose from, with some signature specials like wild boar brioche, fork-tender beef cheeks or oxtail, and bacalhau à bràs (a Portuguese specialty you have to try at least once and this is one of the best versions of it). With just a few tables and only two seating rounds during lunch and dinner, reservations at Sal Grosso are essential.
A classic restaurant with an old-world charm, Gambrinus is one of Lisbon's oldest dining institutions in the heart of Baixa. A proper and traditional setting with white table cloths, rich wood paneling, vested waiters and vintage silverware. The menu offers a variety of Portuguese dishes with some house specialities like partridge pie, fish stew, and their famous beef croquettes (typically served at the bar but can be requested with your appetiser). Finish with their signature Crêpes Suzettes prepared tableside; or the more traditional Toucinho do Céu (almond tart) and Abade de Priscos (a unique Portuguese pudding similar to Crème Caramel), all served from a ceremonious dessert trolley. For a more informal meal or a quick bite, Gambrinus also serves petiscos/snacks like croquettes and bifanas by the bar. Reservations recommended for the restaurant.
Refined seasonal cuisine in a casual atmosphere. Prado is well established in Lisbon's contemporary dining scene, with two separate locations just steps away from Rua Augusta on one side and the Lisbon Cathedral on the other. At the main restaurant, their farm-to-table approach celebrates seasonal ingredients through artful creations, paired with natural, organic and biodynamic wines in a green, light-filled oasis. Just next door, the mercearia is a wine-bar and bistro with a smaller menu of artisanal cheese & charcuterie boards, daily sandwiches for lunch, and a selection of small plates; you can also purchase some of their in-house products and wines at this location. Both spaces are open for lunch and dinner; reservations required.
Set in a Baroque-Neoclassical palace and garden, this fine dining restaurant offers a very unique and memorable experience - contemporary cuisine in grand surroundings. Palacio Do Grilo prides itself as a stage & theatre for artistic expression; often used as a performance space for artists and designers when it's not set for service, it delivers a delightfully dramatic experience for all. The restaurant has three main dining areas, all equally beautiful but the Oculus Room is particularly unique if you can request a table there. Reservations are recommended, especially for dinner. You can also visit during the day for a wander around or a drink at the bar; it's about a 15-minute drive from Alfama but totally worth seeing.
A young and trendy wine bar near Príncipe Real for a quick drink or a leisurely siesta in the area. Magnolia is cool and laidback, and the street-side tables are perfect for sprawling out in the sun. They have a nice selection of natural wines and small plates to pair; as well as a brunch menu on most mornings.
STREET FOOD
Quiosques, or kiosks, are a significant part of Lisbon's social and cultural scene; the city is dotted with one on every corner where locals gather for drinks & snacks throughout the day, and it's something to experience when visiting. This is one of the best places to do it. From the team behind Taberna Rua das Flores, Quiosque São Paulo dishes out the same quality in the form of street snacks, sandwiches and salad dips. If you order only one thing here, it's the cult classic Sandes Lula Frita (fried squid sandwich) - which is worth going specifically for. One of the best things you'll eat in Lisbon. Pair with a glass of their cool, house-made limonada followed by a pot of the Taberna's famous chocolate mousse.
BIFANAS DO AFONSO
One of Portugal's most popular street foods is the humble but punching bifana (thin slices of slow braised pork in a crisp bread roll with tangy yellow mustard), and Afonso serves some of the city's best. It's a small, takeaway vendor in Baixa just a short walk from Rua Augusta and down the street from Prado. The meat is rich and tender, and the bread is perfectly toasted to soak up all the meat juices. There's usually a long queue but it moves fairly quickly and you can grab a seat on the bench across. Cash only.
O TREVO
Another top contender for authentic bifanas, O Trevo is an old-school snack bar and a renowned local favourite (as well as Anthony Bourdain's). You can enjoy a quick bite by the bar or at one of the canteen tables, or grab a bifana to go. Located in the heart of Chiado on the corner of Praça Luís de Camões and a short walk to Rua Garett. Cash only.
PLACES TO VISIT & THINGS TO DO
Lisbon is divided into a few main districts that seamlessly meld into one another but each has a distinct character; being familiar with the different neighbourhoods is a good way to navigate the city.
PRÍNCIPE REAL
Starting at the top of Lisbon's map, Príncipe Real is one of the city's more affluent districts. This is where you'll find the luxury shopping street of Avenue da Liberdade and the beautiful concept store of EmbaiXada, many of the city's finest restaurants and hotels like The Vintage and Faz Frio, and one of Lisbon's largest viewpoints at Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara. From there, it's a short walk down to Bairro Alto and Chiado.
BAIRRO ALTO & CHIADO
Just south of Príncipe Real, Bairro Alto is Lisbon's more hip and bohemian neighbourhood; known for its colourful buildings, narrow cobbled alleys and vibrant nightlife where crowds spill out from surrounding bars. The more elegant and sophisticated Chiado takes you further into the hub of the city. This is where you'll find Rua Garett, lined with boutique shops like Paris em Lisboa, A Vida Portuguesa, and the famous Livraria Bertrand; popular cafés like Brasiliera and Castro; the National Museum of Contemporary Art and Fernando Pessoa's iconic sculpture. From there, the historic square of Praça Luis de Camões leads down to Taberna Rua das Flores, Quiosque São Paulo, and the famous Elevador de Bica. A full day's worth of things to do.
BAIXA
Known as the 'downtown' of Lisbon, Baixa is characterised by its wide streets and broad squares, 18th century architecture and historic landmarks. This is where you'll find the famous Elevador Santa Justa, Confeitaria Nacional, and the historic Praça da Figueira; the busy Rua Augusta (stop at Manteigaria for pastel de nata), the triumphal arch of Arco da Rua Augusta and the waterside plaza of Praça do Comércio lined with more shopping arcades and cafés. Between Baixa and Alfama is where you'll find spots like Prado, Bifanas do Afonso, and Sé (the Lisbon Cathedral).
TRAM 28 & ELEVADOR DA BICA
Lisbon's streets are dotted with colourful trams and these are two of the most famous ones to ride. Tram 28 (dating back to 1914) routes from one end of the city to the other, passing through all the main neighbourhoods like Chiado, Baixa and Alfama with several major landmarks to stop off at. A fun and easy way to do a hop-on-hop-off tour of Lisbon. Elevador da Bica (an engineering marvel dating back to 1888) is perhaps the most photographed tram in the city, which climbs up a steep and narrow alley that connects Rua de São Paulo (where you can grab lunch at Quiosque São Paulo) with Calçada do Combro (a short walk back to Praça Luis de Camões).
ELEVADOR SANTA JUSTA
In the heart of Baixa, Elevador Santa Justa is a unique historic landmark that's hard to miss. An industrial Art-Deco style elevator stemming tall in a narrow alley, and rides up to a panoramic viewpoint of the city and the Carmo Convent. It's worth riding if you go early and avoid the long queues.
MIRADOURO SÃO PEDRO DE ALCÂNTARA
Between Príncipe Real and Chiado, this is perhaps Lisbon's most scenic and relaxing viewpoint. With a large park-like square and fountain, benches and tables along the edge, and a garden space below, it's a wonderful place to while away the afternoon or catch the sunset.
MIRADOURO DAS PORTAS DO SOL
Perhaps Lisbon's largest hilltop viewpoint with a sweeping panorama of Alfama and the sea. It's a short walk up from the Sé Cathedral as well as a stop point on Tram 28.
MIRADOURO SANTA LUZIA
Just around the corner from Portas Do Sol, Miradouro Santa Luzia has a tiled pergola and garden with sweeping views of the sea. It's another one of Lisbon's more popular viewpoints, especially beautiful at sunset and just a short walk from Taberna Sal Grosso for dinner.
BELÉM
A short ride from Lisbon's centre, Belém is known as the 'museum quarter' of the city because of its historic monuments. Start the day with breakfast at Pastéis de Belém, followed by a visit to the Gothic Jeronimos Monastery and the hauntingly beautiful cathedral of Santa Maria de Belém. There's lots more to do in the area, like the Belém Tower and the Monument to Discoveries, depending on how long you want to stay.
SINTRA
If you're staying long enough for a day trip, Sintra is the place to go. Around a half-hour drive from Lisbon, Sintra is a wonderful hilltop town known for its historic palaces and castles, gardens, and its charming small-town feel. Pena Palace is the main attraction here and the focus of any visit - a colourful Romanticist castle on the hills of Sintra, which can easily take a few hours to tour. Another notable landmark in Sintra is Quinta Da Regaleira - a large Gothic complex with lots to see, including a palace and chapel, an Initiation Well, a waterfall lake and grotto, and not to mention a walk through its surrounding forest. Start your visit to Sintra as early as possible if you plan on doing a full tour, it will easily take up most of the day.
BOUTIQUE SHOPS
This unique boutique shop in Chiado takes you back in time the moment you walk in. Set in a beautiful, old apothecary-type space with original cabinets and vintage powder jars from the time it was a perfume factory, A Vida Portuguesa maintains that old-world charm. It brand showcases Portuguese culture in an array of artisanal products, handcrafted accessories and timeless designs - everything from toiletries and linen, chinaware and home decor, to kitchen and pantry products. There's a timeless feel to A Vida Portuguesa and it is truly such a gorgeous shop. The original location sits on Rua Anchieta, just next door to Livraria Bertrand, Cerâmicas na Linha, and The Ivens hotel.
PARIS EM LISBOA
The grand art deco facade of this shop is hard to miss on Rua Garett. Paris Em Lisboa is a luxurious but bespoke home goods shop specialising in bed, bath, and table linen since 1888. The space itself is beautiful and worth a quick wander around if you're in the area; just around the corner from Brasiliera and right next door to Livraria Bertrand.
GRANADO
Across the street from Paris Em Lisboa, Granado is another eye-catching boutique shop of the renowned perfume brand. Gorgeous bottles and packaging that make for a nice gift or souvenir.
EMBAIXADA
Located in the Ribeiro da Cunha Palace on Praça Prîncipe Real, this concept department store is worth visiting for its unique neo-Arab palatial setting and grand staircase, as well as a niche selection of contemporary brands. It can be hard to spot if you're not looking for it; just across Jardim do Príncipe Real and a short walk from Faz Frio.
CERÂMICAS NA LINHA
A popular and renowned brand for handmade pottery and ceramics if you're on the hunt for unique tableware or home accessories. They have three shops around Lisbon but the best one is in Chiado, just next door to A Vida Portuguesa.
CECILE *M
If you take the famous Elevador da Bica up to the top and walk towards the Church of Saint Catherine, this small ceramic shop is just a short walk away. If you're into minimalist ceramics and singular tableware, there's a nice selection to browse through. It's also a short walk to Marquise de Mobler or Magnolia Bistrot from there.
TRAVELING TIPS
1. Lisbon is very much an outdoor/pedestrian city with a lively energy, which makes the warmer seasons a more inviting time to visit. Plan your trip between Spring and Summer to experience that fun and vibrant atmosphere.
2. For a first visit, stay somewhere central and well-connected to all the major landmarks and commercial streets. Príncipe Real is both pleasant and convenient; it's close to the centre but secluded from the hustle and bustle of it. Chiado is even closer to the hub but it is a louder and busier area to stay.
3. The best way to navigate the city is by knowing its major districts and what to do in each one. Lisbon can seem pretty big on the map but you can explore pretty much all of it on foot, and almost all neighbourhoods are within walking distance to each other.
4. Pack comfortable shoes for walking up and down the sloping streets. Lisbon is a hilly city and sometimes a walk can turn into a climb, so be prepared for a lot of leg work.